La Grand Crew ‘007

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For no good reason at all Hot Knives is hosting our first (annual?) bicycle tour of L.A.’s best beer stores on Saturday, August 11. We know we’ve been eluding to this thing for months, since we first started reviewing our favorite brew purveyors for this site. But now the date is set and the details are fermenting. La Grand Crew ‘007 is here!
So, bike buddies, we invite you to tear yourselves away from watching Tour de France reruns at the Yard House and come join us and our closest alcoholics on an overly ambitious beer adventure! Hitting all five stores FEATURED HERE, we plan on traversing L.A. side streets to collect a wide array of bombers and six packs with the express purpose of throwing a tasting/swigging/gulping/retching party at the finish line. We’ll be starting at the Gold Line Metro Highland Park station and end at Echo park lake for a hot nuts & cold beer party. Maybe that’s reason enough to be doing this. In between we ask only that everyone 1) make new friends 2) buy a beer at each stop 3) drink lots of water.
Every store has generously offered to give us discounts and to not comment on our god awful August-heat stank. This event is, obviously, free. You just need some spending money for beer and a bag, sack, fanny pack or pannier. All the details are on the above flyer thanks to Meanstreetz Industries, our co-conspirator ) or contact us with other questions. If you’re down please RSVP ASAP to hotknivez@gmail.com, tell a friend and feel free to let us know if you’re a bike expert or a beer expert with any special skills you can lend to the team! We will post an estimated schedule and map next week in case anyone wants to join the ride partway, which is only very mildly frowned upon. La Grand Crew!!! Whose in?

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Osteria Not-za

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When attempting a dairy-free caprese salad, we’re just as repulsed by the idea of coagulating soymilk into savory balls as SoCal’s recent super-chef-transplant Mario Batali would be. Instead, we whipped up some white polenta, let it congeal, and ritzed it up with two variations on a hearts of palm puree, topped with fresh farmers market tomatoes. For full effect break out your orange crocs and red hair ponytail extension! And if our soundtrack suggestion for this dish doesn’t suit you, rock out with your stock out to Batali’s own,“The King’s Picks.” Wow.

Equipment needed

3 ramequins
2 saucepans
Large metal mixing bowl
Spatula
Whisk
Blender

White Polenta

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4 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 white onion, chopped fine
1 1/2 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil
2 cups vegetable stock
1/2 cup white polenta
1/4 water
1 tsp. white pepper
3 Tbs. vegan margarine
Kosher salt and black pepper to taste
1. In a saucepan, sauté garlic and white onion in olive oil on medium high heat until it starts smelling nutty (about 8-10 minutes). Add vegetable stock and bring to a rolling boil.
2. Make a double boiler on the stovetop by bringing a second saucepan to a boil with 4 cups of water, then place your metal bowl on top. (It should fit snugly!)
3. When the water nears a rolling boil you can use it to blanch your basil first: Remove the metal bowl and salt the boiling water. Dunk the basil for 10 seconds. Remove, immediately rinse in cold water and towel dry. Return the metal bowl to the saucepan.
4. Once the stock in the first saucepan is boiling whisk in the polenta in slow increments until consistently creamy. Then transfer it to the double boiler and continue cooking on medium heat. You’ll need to add hot water to the polenta every minute or so while whisking the shit out of it. Cook like this for about 10 minutes. Season with salt, pepper and white pepper. Fold in the margarine, one last whisk, and remove from heat. Spoon the polenta into the ramequins and refrigerate for one hour, or until firm.

Hearts of Palm & Basil Puree

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3 Tbs. vegan margarine
1 tsp. olive oil
1 medium shallot, minced
8 oz. can hearts of palm
2 Tbs. white balsamic
2 Tbs. white vermouth
1/2 cup basil leaves
pinch of kosher salt
1 cup water
Fresh black pepper
Nutritional yeast
Small basil leaf for garnish
5. Heat 1 Tbs. of margarine and 1 Tsp. of olive oil in your sauté pan. Drain and chop the hearts of palm. Chop the shallot and sauté with hearts of palm for 8 minutes. Add 1 Tbs. white balsamic and the vermouth and reduce. When the pan is nearly dry add the rest of the margarine.
6. Transfer the hearts of palm mush to your blender or cuisinart and puree until movement stops. Continue blending, adding water slowly until it resembles a milkshake. Spoon half into a separate bowl. Add the basil to the blending vessel and puree into oblivion. Chill both white and green sauces.
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7. To remove polenta, shake and gently slap it onto a cutting board and cut into 1/2-inch slices. Cut tomatoes in half width-wise. Turn them on their side and slice in half-moons as thin as possible.
8. Start plating with a dollop of green sauce followed by a mozzarella-sized slice of polenta. Top with tomatoes, white puree and fresh basil leaf. Dash with powder garnish: salt, pepper and nutritional yeast if desired.

Beverage:
Hopf Helle Weise
Soundtrack: Beat Happening’s “Indian Summer”

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No Blood, No Babies

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Our salad days are in full swing, and to celebrate we revived an eternal standard of the garde manger: the Nisçoise. Ubiquitous on the bistro menu, the salad composé of Nice is a meal sized salad anyone can make. Our version is certainly not the spitting image of the forever-popular pile of components crowned with seared tuna. But with the Nisçoise, as with any vegan version of a French classic, deviation is imminently necessary when its current incarnations are so…dusty. In the words of Ian MacKaye “the baby has grown older its no longer cute.”
The cuteness factor for this plate is high as a kite. There are no fillets of sea critters to be found, nor the sterile foul ovum. Fresh and light substitutes abound in caper stuffed kalamata olives (anchovies) hearts of palm half pipes (boiled eggs) and a faux tuna salad, made from the cores of the palm fronds.

Ingredients

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2 shallots
3 cloves of garlic
1 Tbs. aged sherry vinegar
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbs. whole grain Dijon mustard
¼ lb String Beans
4 baby purple potatoes
1 Tbs. Herbs de province
2 Tbs. sea salt
16 pitted kalamata olives
¼ cup capers
1 can of hearts of palm
2 Tomatoes, sliced
1 avocado, sliced
½ hot house cucumber, sliced
1. Heat a large pot of salted water on high heat. Drop the potatoes in when the water is still cold.
2. Peel and mince the shallots and garlic, combine and divide into two separate piles.
3. Place one pile of garlic/shallot in a bowl with the vinegar, whisk in 1 Tbs. of mustard and set aside.
4. If the water is boiling, the potatoes are done. Scoop them from the water and cool off in an ice water bath. Return the water to a boil and blanch the beans for 30 seconds. Chill them out as well.
5. Heat a sauté pan on medium heat. Meanwhile, slice the potatoes into 1/2” thick pieces, like super thick chips. Add one Tbs. olive oil to the pan, count to twenty five and place the potatoes face down to sear. Let them sizzle and brown before flipping. Season each side with sea salt and herbs de province, and set aside when both sides have been browned.
6. Stuff the kalamatas with capers. You can fit between 3 and five capers in each olive.
7. Slice the heats of palm lengthwise down the center. Now carefully peel the outer layer of the heart away. You should be left with a thin skin that resembles the fun part of a water slide…made out of a hard boiled egg…repeat this surgery on all the hearts of palm.
8. Chop the hearts of the hearts roughly and mix with the remaining shallots, garlic, and mustard. This will become your fake tuna salad.
9. Whisk in the 2 Tbs of olive oil into the vinegar and aromatics in a steady stream to emulsify.
10. Toss the salad greens with the vinaigrette, and place in the center of your plates. Scoop faux tuna into the fake egg cradles you’ve crafted. Place sliced tomatoes, chilled string beans, seared potatoes, stuffed olives and sliced cucumbers around the pile of dressed greens.
Beverage: Blanche De Chambly
Soundtrack: Minor Threat “Salad Days”

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Sweet 15

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Occasionally life passages require dramatic, indulgent celebrations. Since we — the two baby men behind Hot Knives — both turned a quarter-of-a-century-old this year, we’re starting to forlornly dig the passage of time enough that we can get Dionysian once in a while for special occasions. Like last week. We partook in an out-of-control, meat-free, 7-course tasting menu meal that cost more than our monthly rent, just to toast to recent good fortunes: Celebrate good times, c’mon.
The brewers at Pizza Port know this. To celebrate their 15th anniversary, they brewed a new imperial double IPA by adding one of 15 different kinds of hops to a bubbling cauldron every 15 minutes. The result is Hop 15, breathtakingly badass, and not as much of a Frankenstein beer as you might imagine. Compared to some triple IPAs, this orange-hued brew is downright balanced. Of course the immediate first note is a chomping bite of hop flavors — a well-rounded and complex mouthful of zesty, earthy, and floral notes firing all at once. Piney notes win out over sugar, which we tend to like. The lingering aftertaste is fresh, even relatively clean tasting, reminiscent of a sea breeze through a field of pine trees. Tender.
Dairy Pairy: Roquefort
Soundtrack: Modest Mouse’s “Head South”

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Sweet 14

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Avery Brewing Company is probably the best argument in favor of southwestern beer superiority. In terms of flavor, packaging, and lunacy, their beers rank highly in our little pantheon of liquid love. For anyone outside of the exteded four corners area, you’re seriously missing out. Oak aged barley wines? 15% abv. stouts? Imperial Oktoberfest Lager? Every year this brewery churns out beautiful bombers that make our tender clutches quake when we spot them in reachin refrigerators. If the full line were available in southern California we would have a stronger tolerance for booze.
In years past, the Avery Anniversary Ale has run the gamut from a beautiful Bock last year, to the still wishfully remembered Ten (10 hops, 10 malts, 110 IBU’s, 10% alc. by vol.) This year’s offering, a dry hopped dark ale, can be summarily described as “a fucking mouthful.”
The ale pours a deep mahogany color, reminiscent of many great imperial reds currently en vogue on the west coast. Bubbles abound in miniature infinities. Though they are never strong enough to form a lasting head these little armies arise at the mildest agitation and swirl so invitingly as to desire intimate knowledge of their physics. Think lacing that makes you want to remove your trousers…
While we did at first whine that we once again were deprived the depravity of an Avery Anniversary IPA, the complexity of this beer surprised and awed us into submission. In the nose this guy is full of red fruits, spices, and chocolate. The first sip is an explosion of malts that some abyss colored stouts barely achieve which fades directly into a full flavored dry hop finish. Dump this dude into a big glass with plenty of room for swirling and sniffing. You’ll find yourself contemplating its various flavor profiles like some kind of drunken pre-Socratic.
The 14 proves no ale is too dark for summer. Find this beer; wait until sunset, slow down.

Dairy Pairy:
Beemster Classic (Or the eldest Gouda you can find. 16 months minimum.)
Soundtrack: Ethiopiques 21

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“Polentaise” Two Ways

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Being brunch geeks, hollandaise sauce has caused us a great deal of pain. The evil goo of egg yolks and clarified butter escapes any true vegan interpretation. Still, we’ve settled on a replacement we’re quite happy with: creamy polenta jacked with vegetable stock, shallots, garlic and fake butter. The enveloping amoeba-like blob of the polenta acts almost like true hollandaise skin overtaking a runny egg. Even if the taste isn’t accurate, it’s damn fine.
We’ve prepared it two ways below: Eggs Benedict (protein heavy) and Eggs Florentine (produce heavy). Both are sticky, salty, rich and belt-loosening breakfasts to be sure. For the Benedict, leave the polentaise a little soupy (more liquid), for the Florentine a little firmer (less liquid). The recipe for “polentaise” will make enough for 8-10 people but we suggest putting leftover polenta in a can or jar where it can congeal. Then simply cut off pieces for meals later in the week.

“Polentaise” Sauce

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1 head garlic
1/2 white onion
4 shallots
1/4 cup vegan margarine
4 cups vegetable stock
1 tsp. Tapatio (or comparable hot sauce)
1 cup polenta meal (not the instant shit)
Sea salt and black pepper to taste
1. Peel and finely chop the garlic, onion and shallots. Add both to a large pot on medium heat with the margarine. In a different pot, bring 3 cups of water to a boil (to create a double boiler for later.)
2. After 4-5 minutes of cooking the onion mixture, add the stock and bring to a boil. Dash with hot sauce and stir. Then add the polenta slowly while continuing to stir, and when evenly distributed remove from heat.
3. The other pot should be boiling by now. Place a large metal bowl that fits snugly on top of the boiling pot. Dump the thickening polenta into the bowl to continue cooking in the double boiler.
4. Begin whisking thoroughly every few seconds for about 10-12 minutes. The mixture should thicken into a batter-like consistency. After 5 minutes if it seems a little too cakey, if it’s sticking to the whisk, add a couple Tablespoons of the boiling water from the pot. Repeat as necessary until the granules of the polenta are dissolved and you’re left with a creamy goo. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Eggs Benedict

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2 English muffins
2 cloves garlic
2 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil
1 large tomato
4 1-inch thick slabs extra firm tofu
1 tsp. smoked salt
1 tsp. smoked paprika
1/3 cup soupier polenta
1 green onion, chopped
1. Separate and toast muffins.
2. Sauté the garlic in oil using a small pan. Cut 4 thick slabs of tomato and toss in pan. Cook on one side only, for about 4-5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Remove and set aside.
3. In same pan, sauté tofu slabs until brown, about 2 minutes on each side. Season with smoked salt and paprika before flipping.
4. Set muffins on a plate, placing a tomato slice on each followed by tofu slab. Then douse in polenta sauce. Garnish with green onion and add dash more of smoked paprika for color.

Eggs Florentine

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2 English muffins
2 cloves garlic
2 Tbs. olive oil
1 large tomato
1 Tsp. smoked salt
1 Tsp. white pepper
1/4 cup stock
the zest of half of a lemon
1 Tbs. apple cider vinegar
2 cups spinach, washed
1/3 cup thicker “polentaise”
1. Separate and toast muffins.
2. Sauté the garlic in oil using a small pan. Cut 4 thick slabs of tomato and toss in pan. Cook on one side only, for about 4-5 minutes. Season with smoked salt and white pepper. Remove and set aside.
3. Heat the same pan again and add a dash more oil and the stock. Season with salt and pepper and the lemon zest. Add the vinegar and toss in spinach to cook for 2-3 minutes or until wilted but still green.
4. Set muffins on a plate, add scoops of thick polenta. Place one tomato on top of each followed by a plop of spinach.
Beverage: Lagunitas’ Saison
Soundtrack: Juice Team DJ’s “Rodcast #4”

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Sonoma Slayers

The Sonoma Farmhouse series is a new line of beers brewed by the bad dudes of the central coast. Lagunitas’ beers usually rank on the heavier side boasting brutal bitterness, and large alcohol percentages. The first two farm hands are milder affairs, with temperate booze levels and heavy-handed subtlety. At a meeting of the minds on Alex’s front porch, we discussed the new ilk of a collective old flame with Greg Buss and Mike Meanstreetz, both hardened Lagunitas cherishers. After eight bombers and two bowls of peanuts we were drunk, and fairly certain that we love these new beers.
While the brewery said that the Sonoma Farmhouses weren’t really available outside their homeland, reports of the Saison’s presence in beer stores abound from Highland Park to Azusa. No sightings of the Hop Stoopid (except our stash), but bug your beer-mongers. If you annoy them, they’ll annoy their distributors, and with luck you’ll find these bombers on familiar shelves.

Saison Style

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At 5.3% alcohol and barely recognizable hop character, the Saison style stays on the side of the discernibly summer. It’s a refreshing session beer with an aftertaste that evokes both corona and saltine crackers. The front of the flavor profile is well balanced with a particularly pleasant yeastiness, with hints of citrus and black pepper. Mass production of this brew certainly took a steady hand. The subtlety of the Saison might not be for every die hard Lagunitas fan, but for the rest of the world this might be your new favorite after work chiller, or a permanent resident for your floating beer cozy (will someone please invent them?). Just don’t let anyone put lime in it.
Dairy Pairy: Sarah’s Nevat
Soundtrack: Brian Jonestown Massacre: “Talk-Action=Shit”

Hop Stoopid

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Unlike the Saison, which you should only slam during a warm day, Hop Stoopid fills the heavy boots of the Lagunitas repertoire. Our assumption would be that a brew with such a boastful name would be a triple-imperial-something, rearing to kick our teeth through our noses with booze and hops. Not really the case here. The hops combo does run all over the gamut, from the pinesap of the northwest to the medicine man intensity of the southern lords. In the nostrils this brew smells of total IPA glory. But, like its aforementioned brethren, this brew’s innermost attributes are pretty chilled out. All of your beer senses are immediately inundated but then released in a very surprising, but fulfilling manner. Think Green Flash Imperial IPA with more complexity. The lightning speed of the hop flavor progression immediately gives way to the super smooth balenced malts, really hiding the booze in this one: it only comes out if you sip at just below room temperature.
Dairy Pairy: Affidelice Au Chablis
Soundtrack: Gang of Four “Anthrax”

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LA Times Food Blog Leaves Bad Taste

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Here in L.A., the fish wrap of record — for restaurant reviews as much as for local news — remains the Los Angeles Times. Every Wednesday we skip the front page over coffee and turn straight to the weekly Food section. Though wincingly pedigreed at times, most of the critiques and recipe writing are juicy, educational and in step with leading trends. Plus the pictures are food porn perfect.
Last month, the food section launched a blog, called “The Daily Dish” — the latest in the paper’s interactive campaign to beef up its web publishing (and advertising revenue). We got giddy at first, revved at the idea that the Times food writers we read every week would be joining the blogosphere, granting readers and other food bloggers a discussion forum larger than most of our individual blogs. But after watching the blog for the last week or two, we’re not sure the editorial staff really wants to be blogging, and if they even know what the implications of that are, or whether these old-school print journalism foodies are being forced by management to half-heartedly blog. At least from the interaction we’ve had with the site it seems that the project is just the latest in a string of sorry, superficial makeovers rather than monumental shifts at the paper.
If you asked the Times lead restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila (known in some kitchen circles as “the Snake”) what she thought the purpose of the blog was, what would she say? Hard to tell: So far she’s mostly shared tips for obscure wines. Other writers have chimed in with advice on hot spots and products, not far from what they offer weekly in the paper, except for heightened level of restaurant gossip. Are these staffers interested in getting feedback, comments and even tips from their devoted foodie readers? Are they interested in building relationships with the dozens of established food bloggers who already cover kitchen equipment, French cheese, dessert recipes and beer in a non-competitive, information-share environment?
Nope, not interested.
We recently commented on a posting by beverage writer Charles Perry. (Read full exchange here.) He does the beer and spirits, so we’ve read his byline closely in the past. A week ago he gave a lengthy recommendation for “The Beer Guppy’s Guide to Southern California,” by Jay Sheveck. It’s one of those comprehensive bible to the beer scene kinda things. We respectfully suggested that the number of beer blogs that cover L.A. and SoCal are also great resources for free. We listed a couple like Hair of the Dog Dave, Beer Chick, and ours. Since “The Daily Dish” links to only the most mainstream of L.A. food blogs we figured it’d be worth pointing readers to. (Six hours later our comment finally got published.)
And Perry did not agree. Though blogs can be “updated instantly,” he responded, “they are still a long way from replacing books. So far, no beer blog I’ve seen even tries to be a comprehensive reference.” He had a point, beer bloggers of all people are not known to painstakingly collect hours of operation, they generally will link to a breweries website where all that information sits instead. We felt that missed the larger point: that there are hundreds of blogs that people can peruse for different opinions, for insider tips, for feature writing on brewery tours, for homebrew advice; all the stuff that this one thin volume attempts to wrap with a bow. In the print version of the paper, we would never expect blog mention, but why not online?
“What is often missed in this print-to-blog mentality,” we commented, “is that one ‘definitive’ source rarely beats 1,000 sources.”
No further comments from Perry (or any other readers for that matter) until a day later when this email turns up in the Hot Knives inbox, presumably by accident! It seems to be email correspondence from Perry to a web editor who asked about the exchange. Either way it reeks of condescension.
“This guy is getting tiresome. I know he wants us to pay attention to blogs, but in this context what they’re doing is totally different from what Sheveck’s book is doing, so why should we? And his big point doesn’t impress me much. If you’ve got the time to comb through a thousand sources, and the energy to evaluate them, more power to you. If not, life goes on. I think this is a rather young person.”
If leaving 2 comments, not much more than 100 words, makes us “tiresome,” that doesn’t bode well for Perry’s career as a blogger. And if he really wants to pull the age card and paint himself as a geezer Republican, that’s his choice.
It says a lot about where he is coming from. He’s used to being the on-high editorial judgment about all things beverage for the biggest paper on the West Coast and he doesn’t have to listen to, or engage, the wise-ass suggestions of a couple eager-to-discuss-beer readers. Blogging, by this view, will always be inferior because it’s the practice of non-professionals and gives voice to many people’s opinions rather than a few. That’s fine. We just always thought that’s what blogs had going for them.
We wish Charles Perry good luck teaching himself a new trick and will return to perusing our peers’ good-natured discussion of food and beer.

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Lagunitas Live

On a recent trip north for a wedding, Lake and Alex burned some time and bought some bombers at the Petaluma digs of Lagunitas brewing company. Lagunitas’ beers have been long time faves of your favorite beer snobs, and it was a real treat to get a peek at the industrial side of their full bore brews.
Unlike Stone’s monolith of a production center cum-hedonist-compound, Lagunitas’ location has more of a factory vibe. Too early and without time for the regular tour, the Brewery’s secretary Stephanie gave an awesome walk around, offering a chance to see, and show you, the mechanical workings of a fast growing super-brewery.
The video shows the Lagunitas means of production in full swing, with their chilled out crew rocking hard to death rocker/horror director Rob Zombie’s late 90’s jams. In the background, you can see the outlines of what Stephanie told us was a three day supply for the growing giant: over 80 pallets of beer.
Stay tuned for reviews of what we brought back…

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How to Smoke a Pizza



If you think we’re turning on the fucking oven in July, you’re nuts. However, a man cannot throw a pizza party on macaroni salad alone, so we did this. And it worked! Thanx to Lesley, Michael and Greg “Summer Babe” Buss for making this happen. Tips on how to actually do it below. In the meantime, familiarize yourselves with “Chelado-style.”

Smoked Pizza


Serves 4-5

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1 serving of pre-made dough
1 Tbs. corn meal
1cup fontina and parmesan cheese (optional)
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 head garlic, peeled only
1 lbs. asparagus spears
1 lbs. crimini mushrooms
3/4 cup marinara
6 – 8 1-inch rounds of fresh mozzarella (optional)
1/4 cup mixture of fresh rosemary and lemon thyme
Sea salt and black pepper to taste

Equipment:

Grill, tin foil, spatula, swimming pool
1. Since you’re going to be placing this pizza on a hot-ass grill for no more than 5 or 6 minutes, the dough needs to be pre-baked. Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees. Pound it out (or buy it store-made) and stretch it onto a large pan or pizza stone that you’ve oiled and tossed with a pinch of cornmeal. If lactose is cool, throw on 1/4 cup of the shredded fontina and parmesan for that “it’s not delivery, it’s Digourna” look. Bake for 15 minutes.
2. Peel your garlic, but don’t chop, and sauté cloves on low in a sauce pot with olive oil. At the same time, bisect your asparagus spears, splitting in half lengthwise, so they’re super skinny. Bring a pot of heavily salted water to boil and toss in asparagus for 2 minutes, so just barely tender. Strain and remove.
3. Cool your pizza crust and garlic (save the oil for something else) and cut your mushrooms, herbs and optional mozzarella. (If you’re not using cheese, throw on artichoke hearts, raddiocchio or hearts of palm or other extra toppings that will go well with the smokiness of a barbecue).
4. Heat your grill. Take a dip in the pool and a hit of the bottle. Dry off. Put something more substantial than flip-flops on. Make sure coals have cooked off initial flames.
5. Prepare your pizza by covering with sauce, shredded cheese, veggies, mozzarella and herbs. Cover the grill with tin foil (do not grease!) and then transfer pizza carefully. Cover the grill and cook for about 6-8 minutes, checking often. Once dough starts to blacken in places on the bottom, you gotta move quick. Transfer back to a flat surface, cut and serve.
Beverage: Miller Chill (it’s not good!)
Soundtrack: Boyd Rice’s Music for Pussycats

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