One of our first forays into real beer, and wastoid-ly groping for words to describe it, was an IPA tasting we did for a newspaper in 2005. We plucked a range of California pales (Stone, Marin County Brewing etc.) from a liquor store and stayed at the office late one night taking rudimentary notes about what we thought we tasted. Of course, it turned into a hop face-off with us quickly proclaiming the hoppiest beer of the bunch (Moylan’s Hopsickle) the winner.
Because to the untrained beer punk — and we were certainly that, undertaking this “tasting” with our intern buddy “Kluthe,” who sported a navel orange Mohawk and plaid suspenders — India Pale Ales can pose a problem; the beer equivalent to what in the music world we’ve heard described as “The Ministry Problem.”
The Minstry Problem: noun, used to describe the unfortunate situation of many proto-industrial-metal bands best typified by the band Ministry during the mid ’90s in which every new album is expected to be faster and louder than the last to push the proverbial envelope, resulting in indulgent, sample-heavy metal that, put simply, sucked after 1996.
Beer has this too! Call it the Triple IPA Problem. Its when brewers, especially our West Coast stars feel the need to make every IPA hoppier and more extreme then the next (see Port Brewing). And although we happen to love almost unapproachable beers, we’ll agree there is a line, somewhere, that just doesn’t need to be crossed.
We kept this in mind when we reserved a bottle of limited edition Exponential Hoppiness this month from Red Carpet in Glendale. And we were absolutely thinking about it when we popped the bottle by ourselves on a low-key Super Bowl Sunday that didn’t involve TV or chili or anything except sitting at the window writing. Was this triple IPA going to be metal as fuck?
It’s right there on the bottle: Alpine starts with “multiple kettle hop additions, where each addition is literally double the previous… exponentially, get it? That’s the beginning. Then there’s the use of what’s called a “hop back,” which is like a brewers’ version of sawing off a PVC pipe and smacking you. Seriously, it’s a stainless steel pipe that holds hop leaves and lets hot brewing beer pass through it like water for hot tea. Then there’s two dry-hopping sessions. Oh yeah, almost forgot, and then they toss in several “body-bag” sized sacks filled with hop flowers and oak chips at the end.
Which is why we were surprised to swill a juice cup of this beer and not double over poisoned by hop fumes, but instead be dotted with a sweet, rosy hop-water cologne. The head was nice, nothing unusual, slightly thin, lager-ish foam. The body color too seemed far from menacing: not evil red or wood colored like we’ve seen before. No, this beer does the darnedest thing. It takes hops in several stages and forms and melds them into a friendly, sweet flowery tonic that reminded us more of rosewater and orange blossom than Extreme Beer’s sacramental herb. Each tiny glass, we liked it more. Low-hanging hop berries, slightly skunky grass clippings. There’s a bitter tinge, of course, but it tastes more like booze dripping from oak trees with oversized hop leaves. In fact, looking out on our empty street on Super Bowl Sunday holding this, we felt something that made no sense: despite the $20, 11 percent alcohol beer in our hand, we felt saved from the excesses of 24-packs, the indulgences of 12-leg food buckets, 7-layer dips and the hegemony of stupid games.
Dairy Pairy: Challerhocker; a dense crunchy raw cow’s milk cheese from Toggenburg.
Soundtrack: Ministry, “Stigmata”
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