‘Cheese In Quotes’ Pâté

It’s true we’ll never be big believers in vegan “cheese.” You know, the velveeta-like pizza and quesadilla goop? Its mostly oil and flavored science to help it “melt.” We’ll take a splash of good olive oil and freshly ground spices over that any day, thank you very much.
But, we are still keen on protein-laden pâté and spreads that can compliment, or even replace, a funky fromage. Think Euro charcuterie rather than Kraft singles…
So, last weekend, as we prepared a deeply beer-friendly cheese plate for our Greatest Sips book launch party, we looked for a vegan equivalent. We decided to hone a cashew “cheese” recipe we’ve followed a couple times from Charlie Trotter’s “Raw,” an excellent vegan-raw “cook” book. Trotter’s “cashew cheese” is a simple, creamy spread that doesn’t involve a dehydrator or his typical 20-steps. But we also find the flavor to be a little simple as a result. So, to pump up the ‘stank’ factor, we played a little fast and loose with the fermentation directions and added a secret ingredient that, by now, dear readers you should have sitting around anyway.
The result is a creamy, velvety spread that comes close to the fat and funk of a farmstead cheese, though it really can’t be called an imitation. Served with lunchmeat style habanero seitan and kraut-relish, our guests loved it, though some didn’t much care for the “cheese” reference. Okay, okay, it’s pâté. Now, if only we had a vegan impression of that other classic cheese plate protein — a terrine of foie gras. Hmm, stay tuned…

3 cups raw cashew pieces
3 cups filtered water
1/2 cup Rejuvelac
2 Tbs. sauerkraut brine (red cabbage preferred)
1 Tbs. kosher salt
2 Tbs. peppercorns
1 1/2 Tbs. Brewer’s yeast
1 tsp. dried rosemary
1 tsp. fennel pollen (optional)
1. Soak the cashews in filtered water for at least 12 hours, covering the bowl with a cloth.
2. Puree into a paste: Drain cashews and add to a food processor. Pulse cashews for several minutes, pouring in the Rejuvelac slowly. Then pour in the kraut juice. Once mixture is creamy and fully mixed, spoon it into a fine mesh strainer and rest the strainer in a large bowl, covered with a cloth.
3. Store the cashew mixture in a warm place, like your oven, for 16 hours. If your kitchen isn’t particularly warm, try turning the oven on warm for 10 minutes every 3-4 hours to trap in heat, but make sure not to cook the stuff.
4. Once the mixture smells yeasty, you’re ready to finish flavoring and shaping it. Remove from strainer into a clean bowl. Add 1 Tbs. of Brewer’s yeast and the salt to taste. Then mix with a spoon. Prepare a sturdy cutting board with wax paper and choose 3 ring molds or tea cups to use for shaping the cheese. Spray each cup with a bit of canola or olive oil spray to prevent sticking. Spray the wax paper as well. Divide mixture into 3 portions (about 1 cup each) and pack tightly into cup.
5. Turn the three cups onto the wax paper-lined cutting board and sit like this stored in the fridge for at least 24 hours.
6. Now, the spread should hold its shape. Tap the cup to loosen the Pâté and top with garnish of chopped peppercorns, rosemary, fennel pollen and remaining Brewer’s yeast.
Beverage: Firestone’s Velvet Merkin
Soundtrack: Stereolab’s “Velvet Water”