Fusion cuisine usually results in strong feelings. Ours tends toward an itch to retch. Savagely gimmicky places like Thaitalian (both have noodles!) utilize the conciliatory application of different ethnic ingredients and technique frankly make us want to barf. On the other side, a happier, less pukey place, there are solid reinterpretations of one country’s food with another culture’s ingredients and the results can sometimes be blissfully mind blowing. But one certainly is elemental in the%
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