Getting Lucky

Lagunitas Lucky 13

Slipping this beer into a pint glass sounded a lot like two-inch fingernails — painted precisely a deep crimson red — clicking on a car door. It felt like wind and someone nibbling our ears. Half a bottle got us buzzed like we can only imagine you get when removing miniscule black underwear from a girl with hoop earrings and a femme pompadour. In a word: lucky. We wonder if that’s what the people at Lagunitas were shooting for with this, their 13th anniversary copper brew. The word “lucky” seems fitting for another reason. Because even though the brewery is often hailed as a No-Cal up-and-comer, Lagunitas remains a hit-and-miss brand. We love some of their beers (Maximus, Number 9) can’t drink others (Cappuccino Stout, Brown Shugga). This high-octane amber is a step above — or a stroke of luck — but either way it embodies what the company does well. A wispy head gives way to a Labrador red liquid. It is both exceptionally hoppy and sweetly bitter at first taste, before giving way to an almost metallic burnt caramel. Being a middle-of-your-mouth kind of beer the tastes come in waves: a tease and a door slammed in your face. The last note of every sip, however, is so fucking sweet.

Dairy Pairy: Alsatian Munster
Soundtrack: Sonic Youth’s Goo