Being immense fans of Artisan Ales, the very best small batch beer distributor in LA, and Friends with it’s owner/front man Kevin, we were both flattered and flabbergasted at a chance to have first crack at a new bottle. There has been a lot of buzz about incoming releases from newcomers to the Sour Hour, a place where heavyweights like Russian River and Jolly Pumpkin hold court, and Kevin had promised us a newbie that would both surprise and satisfy our recent obsession with intentionally infected libations.
When the bottle arrived, the surprise was palpable. With the exception of a slightly funky keg of Stock Porter swilled with secret glee at a neighborhood beer bar, the thought of Telegraph Brewing taking the plunge into the vague and mysterious world of bacterial brewing was far from the forefront of our thoughts.
Telegraph Brewing Co.’s beers tend towards the subtle and complex; Wheat Reserve is no exception. Other releases, the Witte, the aforementioned Porter (both unintentionally sour or untarnished in a bottle), bespeak a commitment to clarity. The beers, while not overwhelmingly alluring on paper are always remarkably rewarding in the glass. Like the reverberating choral formula of Neu-American Cuisine, high ingrediants+unfussed preparation=perfect commitment to flavor, the Telegraph beers have a focused taste that, while unfettered and seemingly “simple,” bespeaks a kind of perfection. Like some of the best Lambic and Geuze from the old country, the amount of flavor residing in this 750 could stand up to kings of both grape and grain giving you almost as much to contemplate as guzzle.
Wow (an actual tasting note).
Wheat Reserve has a super tart onset that knocks your taste buds back a bit. Unlike its inspirators, the slight stomach acid tinge and urea are absent, in their place citrus (many many kinds). Juice, oils and pith all collaborate to make the gentles war on your palate. The bitterness is barely so, and soon a swell of grain extinguishes what flames once were. A finish that bespeaks our sourdough starter, aged cheve, and preserved lemons: an absolutists’ conception of a glorious fermentation hydra.
There’s vanilla and oak like those most pompous of Chardonnays. The rocks and dirt of a good Sancerre? Present. Clean firm bubbles pop and are gone with a slight tingle all the way down the gullet. The feeling lasts on your tongue past the uvula and stops parallel to your lungs.
Has Telegraph made the stateside equivalent of Cantillon? Hell no. But this bottle marks the ascension of a brewing style that still remains somewhat arcane to most of our giant country, and the solidification of Telegraph as a personal fave.
What is more pertinent than comparing rotten apples (i.e. Wheat Reserve to Belgian Lambic and Geuze), is the notion that ales of this caliber and character can play chicken with the wine world fairly unflinchingly; a notion that is at once awesome and somewhat unimportant.
Will the American beer movement gain notoriety for discovering and creating a better doppelganger for Champagne, albeit one superior in complexity and drinkability but fractionally comparable in price? Of course not. Again, the point isn’t that beer triumph over wine in the eyes of the many; the point is that we already know that it does in the minds of the few. With small batch beers like Telegraph’s Wheat Reserve, we’re glad that its only the few of us that know: its our little secret.
Dairy Pairy: Pyrénées D’argental; raw cow’s milk from The Mountains.
Soundtrack: Gang of Four “Damaged Goods”
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