February 2007 Archives
Hot Beet Injection on Vimeo
We're always getting letters from readers asking how they can make their soy products drip blood like its raw flesh. Oh wait, no we aren't.
In any case, there is something to be said for making the off-white, sickly pallet that is pressed soybean a little bit more colorful -- be it neon green, orange or red. We plan to start filling our food syringes with all the flavors of the vegetable-based color-wheel. In the meantime, here we've gone and tried a sick experiment with blood-red panmade beet-paprika vinaigrette. If you're ever scrambling to color your tofu for a carnivore, this is the recipe for you. If you're at all squeamish about blood and/or mock-meats, sorry, this isn't.
Oft imitated, but rarely approached — there are few things better than beer made by men of the cloth. But for the most part, traditional trappist ales, (or monk-made, bottle conditioned Belgian ales) are hardly innovative.
This golden liquid fits very much in this category. The frothy head is incredible; the aroma startlingly fresh, almost grassy. The amount of sediment in each pour must be terrifying to a lager fan (goopy white chunks of fermentation boogies). And the crisp nip of the beer’s taste is exceedingly well-done. It's like Delerium with less ego. But creative it's not.
This triple is light, only mildly hoppy and has floral notes up the ass. It's a tame and pleasant afternoon chugger for sure, if you're not asking for boundaries to be crossed or envelopes to be pushed, or whatever.
Dairy Pairy: Camambert with Dijon
Soundtrack: Jefferson Airplane's Surrealistic Pillow
If you’re still not convinced the Grilled Cheese Invitational is worth your precious Saturday night, consider this: 40 self-lighting propane grills, 16 judges per sandwich and one Mayor of Cheese. Show up and register to judge the sammiez yourself. And if that isn’t enough, here’s a sneak preview of our own humble cheese roster for the upcoming contest.
"Italian Stallion"
A foglie de gnocci (hard pecorino aged in walnut leaves) encrusted tallegio melt.
"Pepper Jacked"
Pepper syrup rubbed Texas toast stuffed with roasted green chili, young Monterey Jack from Oregon and hard aged Monterey Jack from Sonomo and tri-colored exotic peppercorns (telicherry, Szechuan, white).
"Strawberry Shortcake"
Fresh chevre on English muffin loaf with strawberry-balsamic compote, fresh basil and balsamic glaze.
Despite the impending cold and rainy forecast for this coming weekend, and the endless onslaught of snowstorms in the southwest, we are ardently in support of a special little someone's prediction of an early spring. It felt like the little dude's no-fear attitude was for real, earlier this week at least, despite the nearing apocalypse.
To keep things positive, we decided to formulate a colorful vegan take on a classic French soup known for its lightheartedness and comforting ability. Knock out a batch of this chilled treat when the temperatures start to climb back to bearable, and head to the park to bask in carbohydrated glory. (This soup also rules warm, if you really feel like defying tradition…)
Roasted Vichyssoise
6 small purple potatoes
1 beet
1 jalapeno cut in half
3 leeks
6 shallots chopped
1 red onion
1 cup virgin olive oil
2 cups unsweetened soy milk
3 cups veggie broth
1 cup water
3 Tbs. sherry vinegar
1 Tbs. sea salt
1 Tbs. ground black pepper
Sage Tempura
1/4 cup tempura mix
A few sips worth of the beer you should be drinking
8 fresh sage leaves
1 cup canola oil
Preheat your oven to 400 degrees.
Scrub the potatoes and the beet, peel and cut into 1/4" dice. Skin and roughly chop the red onion, and combine all three roots in a baking dish. Dress with 1/2 cup olive oil, 1/2 Tbs. of sea salt, 1/2 Tbs. of ground black pepper, and the bifurcated jalapeno and place in the oven. Remove the dish from the oven and agitate with a spoon or a spatula to avoid burning.
Trim and clean your leeks, and dice them as finely as you can. In another casserole dish, combine the shallots the leeks, 1/2 cup of olive oil, 1/2 Tbs. each of salt and pepper and the vinegar. Roast similarly to the potatoes and beet, checking the vegetables every five minutes to stir them.
Both dishes of veggies should be thoroughly roasted within 25 minutes. The shallots should be very soft, the potatoes and beets easily mashed with a fork. When the roots are roasted, combine the contents of both dishes and let cool for 15 minutes.
In a mixing bowl combine the veggie broth, water and soymilk.
Using a food processor puree the vegetables in batches, adding enough of the soy-veggie-water to create a smooth roasty paste. When you’ve pulverized the hell out of the solids whisk in the extra liquid, season with extra salt and pepper if needed and place in your fridge to cool.
Heat a medium sized skillet on high for three minutes then add the canola oil
Now combine the tempura batter and enough beer to make a batter comparable to that of pancake. Mix it with your hands, and don’t be too thorough. Dunk the sage leaves in the batter until coated. Fry the leaves in the oil for approx 1 minute on each side, or until golden brown. Dry the leaves on paper towels. For gods sake please be careful not to burn yourself.
Serve the chilled soup in small bowls. Garnish with a small, lightly dressed chiffonade of cabbage or radicchio, and the still warm sage tempura.
Beverage: Port Brewing Co's Lost Abbey ale
Soundtrack: Lou Reed's "Vicious"
5 cups canola oil (or grape seed oil)
1 sweet potato
4 fingerling potatoes
6 baby beets, skinned and trimmed of leaves and stems
1/4 cup beet water (see below)
1 cup tempura batter
1. Heat a large pot of boiling salted water to boil. When bubbling vigorously, drop the baby beets in and blanch for ten minutes. Remove from the pot and cool them with ice cold water. Reserve 1/4 cup of the water used to blanch the beets, it should be dark purple in color, set aside to cool.
2. Using a mandolin, or the sharpest knife in your drawer, slice the sweet potatoes super thin. place in a bowl of cold water and agitate until the water turns cloudy. Drain the sweeties and repeat this process two more times. By rinsing away excess starch you will obtain a crisper product in the end.
3. Scrub the fingerlings and half them length wise, then cut into long strips about 1/4" thick. repeat the same process as above.
4. Heat the canola oil in a large wok on medium heat for five minutes.
5. While the oil comes up to temperature, place the tempura batter in a small bowl and ad the reserved beet water bit by bit, until the batter has a consistency that is movable but still very thick: you're shooting for a pancake viscosity, not crepe batter. Place the now cooled beets in the tempura batter and coat thoroughly.
6. Fry each vegetable in shifts, being SUPER CAREFUL to pat dry both the sweat potato chips and the fingerling frites with paper towels. Extremely hot oil hates cold water, and your skin hates errant beads of molten fat. Use a metal spatula or tongs to turn each root so it browns on all sides. Once nice and browned remove from the oil and pat dry with paper towels. Serve with appropriate accoutrements (beer is necessary).
Last week we came home from a particularly heavy night of drinking to find a sweet surprise on the doorstep: a hulking party pack of somewhat experimental potato chips from the Kettle test kitchen (courtesy of our good web friend Mikey).
Needless to say, one of those five bags didn't make it 'till morning. However, the other four did and we set upon a proper taste test. And what better day to do it than Super Bowl Sunday? So, rather than bother with the football, we grabbed an extra large bowl and a couple cupse of palate-cleansing strawberry water, and we got down to business.
So without further ado, our rankings and ramblings for Kettle's new potato prada...
5. Azteca Chocolate
This gimmicky flavor failed to win our tasters over. A thorough dusting of Mexican chocolate leaves the chips almost completely brown and slightly less crispy than desired -- almost mushy. The predominant flavor is actually cinnamon, like a chocolate churro, though the end taste is definitely the bitterness of Mexican chocolate. We could have used more salt on the things, though the liberal sprinle of red chile or cayenne was much appreciated. One of our tasters pointed out that the combo of potato and cocoa was actually extremely historical. But we wonder if the Aztecs could have managed the task better?
4. Twisted Chile Lime
We (wrongly) assumed that this was a Thai-inspired flavor. On closer inspection the "chile" is jalapeno and the cultural nod is more, how you say, "south of the border." That said, these chips are mild in both tanginess and spice. Everyone here agreed they could have upped the heat level just a bit, but that the imitation of lime is far better than most chips manage. Though they're fairly well salted, these might go the best with a dip of some sort.
3. Dragon 5 Spice
This variety is pretty out there, but without any compromised chip quality. The first pungent punch is gnarly ginger, fennel and allspice. The crunch and greasiness lends a perfect platform for the flavor too -- almost like a little bite of Chinese food without the MSG. And while the idea of craving the stuff or munching an entire bag was pretty much unthinkable, we can definitely get behind the idea of beef and broccoli in chip form.
2. Royal Indian Curry
As mentioned above, this bag didn't make it more than 3 minutes after being opened, and for good reason. For one, the flavor is genius and hardly done here in the States, but the execution was even more impressive. Slathered in authentic masala curry, these chips are sickly, radiation yellow; they scream Britain. The buttery potato base works wonders for the Kettle lab cooks' combination of cumin, fenugreek and turmeric. Although we didn't have the foresight, or soberness, to serve it with anything, there would be nothing better than dipping these into some dill Greek yogurt, raitha or dill cream cheese. Better yet, some green peas and beer battered cod.
1. Island Jerk
Best chip ever maaaahn... This flavor manages to take the potato chip to another level, no joke, and to communicate much more than any other packaged or processed snack food we've ever come across. At it's core, the Island Jerk is of course just Jamaican barbecue and in our mind barbecue potato chips will always rule. But here we're talking about the taste of an open fire pit and Caribbean jerk meat marinade: tyme, paprika, allspice. No dip required, no snacking help needed. If they continue making these chips, and we hope for your sake they do, go buy them.
Beverage: Anderson Valley's Brother David Double Belgian Ale
Soundtrack: Hot Chips' The Warning
One of childhood's trashiest pleasures, these Styrofoam packages of dehydrated non-nutrition tasted brilliant despite, even because of, their innovatively cost-efficient design: a self-contained bowl, light and aerodynamic ingredients with the simplicity of astronaut cuisine. Just add water. And never underestimate the importance of format when it comes to food.
Longing for the quirks of Cup o' Noodles and Top Ramen -- the cute, dried peas and cubed carrots, the unbelievably salty broth, the flakes of dried parsley and tiny nubbins of reconstituted chicken -- we stumbled upon a phó-like version that packs a punch in a smaller does, a shot o' noodles, if you will. We managed to substitute everything that could stunt your growth as a kid with healthy, real and totally vegan nutrition. And you still get the fun of watching your food grow!
Broth
2 cups vegetable broth
1 stalk lemongrass, sliced and crushed
1 jalapeño, sliced
1 bunch cilantro
1 green onion, chopped
1 bunch mint
"Dehydrated Veg"
1 cup frozen peas
1 lime, peeled
1 carrot, peeled
1 bulb young ginger, peeled
1 small block smoked tofu
1/4 cup bacon bits
Noodles
2 cups dry chow mein noodles
1 cup canola oil
1. Since you won't be using MSG, the best way to concentrate your broth is to add it to all the other ingredients in a saucepan and slowly bring it up to simmer. Let it bubble for close to an hour while you prepare the veggies and noodles.
2. Defrost the peas by placing in a bowl of hot water or in the microwave for 1-2 minutes. Leave them slightly crunchy for extra sentimental effect. Slice your peeled lime into four long pieces, turn and cube. Cut your peeled carrot into similarly sized carrot cubes (pickled carrot strips work even better). Repeat with young ginger. Toss together in a bowl and set aside.
3. Rather than use raw chow mein, heat up a wok to fry the noodles quickly. Once hot, drop them in and stir thoroughly. After 2-3 minutes or until crunchy and slightly golden, remove and press with paper towels.
4. After close to an hour of simmering, strain the broth of any stray ingredients, and set aside.
5. Chop the smoked tofu into small cubes.
6. In small bowls, plate the dry ingredients, first the crunchy noodles, then top with the cubed veggies, followed by the smoked tofu cubes and bacon bits. Pour a small serving of broth into a tumbler or snifter. Serve separate so that diner may add broth to soup bowl.
Following a radical dinner with a low matainenence dessert that doesn't bore your friends or destroy your kitchen is damn near impossible. Usually we just crank out a cheese course, serve some whiskey, and look all doe eyed until someone else owns up to doing the dishes.
This "cheesecake" is really quick to whip up and won't stress you out. We stuck to our guns by making a slightly sweeter than savory little napoleon with fresh goat cheese, strawberries, and basil that will totally stand out at the end of any meal.
5 shallots, peeled and sliced
10 strawberries
3 Tbs. vegan butter
3 Tbs. brown sugar
1/3 cup cream sherry
4 3/4" slices of prefab polenta
1 Tbs. golden balsamic vinegar
4 3/4" slices of fresh goat cheese
6 large basil leaves
Heat a small sauté pan on medium heat for three minutes. Add the shallots and toast for two minutes. While the shallots toast, stem and slice 8 of the 10 strawberries, then add them to the pan with 2 Tbs. of the vegan butter and cook for an additional 2 minutes before adding the sugar. Sauté for 5-7 minutes; the strawberries should be dark and wilting, the shallots should be soft. Now, crank the heat to high and add the sherry and cook until the mixture has congealed into a thick syrup. Remove from heat.
In a medium sauté pan, heat the remaining vegan butter until it is bubbling. Cook the polenta slices until golden brown, about three minutes on each side. Add the vinegar and cook until it disappears, and remove the pan from the heat.
Make a basil chiffonade by stacking the basil leaves on top of each other and rolling into a tight joint-looking-thing. Slice as thinly as you can. Stem the remaining two strawberries and slice 'em super thin from tip to base.
Plate the polenta cake and top with goat cheese, strawberry shallot compote, and basil chiffonade. Place the sliced strawberry on top, fanning it out to make a pretty red mohawk.
Beverage: Stone Brewery's 2007 Old Guardian Barley Wine
Soundtrack: Jesus and Mary Chain, Just Like Honey
Well, nothing -- nothing -- is geekier than the annual Grilled Cheese Invitational, which we are proud to announce is scheduled to take place again this year on Saturday, February 24 on the edge of downtown Los Angeles. We at Hot Knives are registered to compete in all three sandwich heats again and because the entire gooey event hinges on a large, starving audience of cheese fans to act as judges we'd like to enjoin each and every one of you to show up.
If you have no clue what the fuck we're talking about, read up about the event at the official site and our play-by-play recount from last year, which includes last year's recipes that earned us two Third Place trophies. Despite some ruffled feathers from our friendly use of the word "weirdos" to describe the participants and promoters, we think this is the best thing to happen to sliced bread since, well, cheese.
1 cup dry Borlotti beans (soaked overnight in 4 cups water)
2 large russet potatoes
2 tsp olive oil
2 Tbs. vegan butter
1 onion diced
1 leek cleaned and diced
2 medium carrots chopped
8 crimini mushrooms quartered
6 cloves of garlic diced
1⁄2 cup American style amber ale
4 cups vegetable stock
2 bay leaves
1⁄4 cup brewers yeast
2 Tsp. Salt
2 Tsp. Pepper
1 cup frozen peas
1 sheet pre-fab puff pastry, or 8 sheets filo dough
4 tsp smoked paprika1. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.
2. Rinse and scrub the potatoes, then dry them. Rub them with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Now wrap each potato tightly with aluminum foil and bake in the oven for approximately 40 minutes, or until you can stick a fork in them with ease.
3. Heat a medium pot n high heat. Add the veeg butter and let it melt and bubble for about 45 seconds before adding the carrots, onion and leek. Sauté the first three ingredients for around five minute, or until the leeks start to turn tender. Now, add the mushrooms and the garlic and sauté until the shrooms have started to wilt, about three more minutes. Now add the beans and sauté for one more minute.
4. Add the beer and reduce to nearly nothing. Now add the stock and bay leaves and bring to a boil. Reduce the to medium and cover the pot. Simmer for 25 minutes and check the beans. If they are still very dry inside add an extra cup of stock and return to a boil.
5. When the beans are cooked through, remove the bay leaves then add the brewers yeast, salt and pepper. Add the frozen peas, and return to a simmer. Turn off the heat, but keep the pot covered.
6. Check the potatoes. If they are easily stabbed with a fork, remove them from their aluminum sarcophagi and slice them in half: lengthwise. Using a spoon, a grapefruit spoon works a thousand times better, carefully hollow out the potato as best you can. The goal is to not pierce through the skin, so leave as much of a potato barrier as you need.
7. Whisk in 1 cup of cooked potato center into your soup. Watch it turn to stew.
8. Remove the puff pastry from the freezer to let is come to temperature, which will take about two minutes. Place the hollowed potato halves face down on the dough and carve around the perimeter of each potato.
9. Fill each potato with as much stew as it will hold and cover with each potato with its pre-determined pastry lid. Pinch down the corners of the pastry around the lip of each potato with a fork.
10. Return to the oven and bake until the pastry is a golden brown hue.
11. Serve each potato on top of an extra scoop of stew. Garnish with smoked paprika.
Beverage: Westmalle Tripel
Soundtrack: My Bloody Valentine, "What You Want"
