Review: December 2006 Archives
Pizza is a staple of our diet. With a base of bread and a pile of veggies, fruits, meats, and cheese, pizza is a literal food pyramid. While arguing over toppings defines our culture as much as arguing politics, the classic slice of cheese is the basis by which we judge one pizzeria from another. The cheese slice allows us to compare "apples to apples", rather than taking a slice of ham and pineapple and trying to compare that to pesto sauce and chicken. We eliminate all the wonderful clutter that can be a slice of pizza and just focus on the basics: crust, sauce, and cheese.
In order to make our Five Part Investigation of Portland Pizza as useful as possible, we have limited our scope to pizza that is delivered. While this does remove from the running the local favorites like Ken's Artisan Pizza, Escape From New York, and Apizza Scholls, we feel like there is much more usefulness in the best delivered pie. We've also broken down our search by quadrant to better address the places to consider when ordering pizza. Part one is North Portland.
We chose four places to call, including Pizza Hut as a representative of the national chains that can deliver anywhere. Surprisingly, we had difficulty in recalling even three places in North Portland that delivered. We chose Pizza A-Go-Go, Mississippi Pizza, and Tom's Pizza and Pub.
At 7:45 pm on a Friday night we called the four pizza places at the same time and ordered a cheese pizza. Right away we ran into some snags. Mississippi Pizza does not deliver! We quickly called Eddy's Flatiron Pizza (a favorite of North Portland residents Curt and Molly) and noted the time differential. The other problem was that Tom's Pizza and Pub had a minimum delivery order and a single cheese pizza did not meet that minimum, so we added an order of cheesy breadsticks.
After making the calls and dealing with the initial problems, we looked at the info we had so far, Delivery Estimates: Pizza Hut made a bold claim of only 28 minutes. Eddy's Flatiron Pizza said 35 to 40 minutes. Tom's Pizza was a 45 minute estimate, and Pizza A Go Go was a surprising hour to an hour and 15 minutes.
Pizza Hut
Coming in well under the 28 minute claim was Pizza Hut, arriving just 19 minutes and 42 seconds from the point at which we started to dial their number. Everyone was impressed, and a little suspicious. Were they just out there circling the neighborhoods with pizza's ready to deliver?
With seven people tasting and rating the flavor on a scale of one to ten, we had a wide variety of scores that averaged out to 4.57/10. Clearly this wasn't great pizza, but the delivery time was great.
Sarah: "I get an aftertaste of lard."
Willow: "I love the crispy-grease-salt layer at the bottom of the crust!"
Adam: "Tastes like Texas Toast."
Tom's Pizza and Pub
Also well under their own estimate of 45 minutes was Tom's Pizza and Pub, arriving in 29 minutes and 35 seconds. We were initially excited that a local pizzeria wasn't too far behind the national chain.
In the battle of flavor however, Tom's Pizza and Pub was decimated with an average score of just 2.42. Being rated so low after all we had tried was Pizza hut speaks especially poorly of this pizza. Interestingly, the extra breadsticks we had to order were much better received, but not part of this study.
Brian: "A spicy scent, but a doughy crusty flour tasting crust."
Daniel: "This is the pizza version of bad Mexican food."
Steve: "It's a little too soft, but I like the thickness of the crust."
Willow: "Sick."
Eddy's Flatiron Pizza
Eddy's Flatiron Pizza was the Babe Ruth of estimating delivery time. They told us 35 to 40 minutes and it arrived at 36 minutes and 10 seconds. Respect.
Unfortunately, that was the last bit of respect Eddy's would be getting for the night, gaining only a 3.2 out of ten in the category of taste. While not the worst pizza of the night, it's still in the Very Bad category.
Steve: "The thin crust and square cut is novel, but it's too salty."
Adam: "Has the weirdest texture, a hard bottom and soft top. The flavor is salty and citrus."
Willow: "Very, very salty. The crust is like dust and the cheese is more sticky than anything else."
Pizza A Go Go
Pizza A Go Go? More like Pizza A No Show. While the pizza was within their estimated time frame of an hour to an hour and 15 minutes, waiting an hour and 13 minutes is just much too long to wait.
Personally I wasn't too surprised to find that Pizza A Go Go won in the flavor category, but I was surprised that they only barely beat out Pizza Hut with a 4.71 our of 10 rating. Clearly North Portland has a lot to learn about pizza.
Daniel: "This pizza is cold."
Brian: "The crust is toasted to the supreme, but there is a carbon flavor..."
Sarah: "Pleasantly oily, like olive oil instead of lard."
Additional Data
While a delivered pizza should be judged on taste and time, it's interesting to compare that data with some other numbers. By measuring several slices we determined the average weight of a slice from each pizzeria, and then based on the price determined the cost per ounce.
| Pizzeria | Taste | Cost | Size | Weight (Slice) | Speed |
| Pizza A Go Go | 4.71/10 | $0.48/oz | 19" | 4.25oz | 73m |
| Pizza Hut | 4.45/10 | $0.59/oz | 10" | 2.8oz | 20m |
| Eddy's Flatiron Pizza | 3.2/10 | $0.37/oz | 14" | 4.6oz* | 36m |
| Tom's Pizza and Pub | 2.42/10 | $0.34/oz | 13.5" | 6.35oz | 30m |
(*Eddy's pizza was cut into 16 smaller squares, so we used two squares to make one slice)
Conclusion
North Portland has some of the best food in Portland, and so it's with disappointment that we can recommend no pizza for delivery in this quadrant. I'm sure that people will attempt to refute our findings and we welcome the discourse, because it's a sad day when the only prospects for a delivered cheese pizza rate less than 5 out of 10. It is my hope that we missed some secret local pizzeria that is making great pizza and delivering it under an hour.
Next Up: The Northwest Quadrant, including local favorite Hot Lips and the haunted pies of Old Town Pizza.

Team North
The North Portland Pizza Tasting Team was a diverse and experienced group of pizza experts:
Steve Schroeder: "I find Personal Power through Pizza (and Tony Robbins)."
Daniel Peterson: "Before you embark on a journey of revenge, eat two pizzas."
Adam Forkner: "I've never met a pizza I didn't eat."
Willow Wonder: "I love pizza."
Sarah Meadows: "The pizza! Definitely not you guys..."
Brian Slaughter: "One remains faithful to a pizza only because its toppings do not cease to be insipid."
Mike Merrill: "I eat pizza for breakfast."
